1. Drummond 4

Serial Number: 19118RKX 2. Jump to content. There is a fair bit of information about drummond lathes. Lathes; Show me your Lathe. Lathe, round bed, treadle powered lathe, Drummond Type A, Serial number and maker's inscription. 1920-1923, Made by Drummond Brothers in Guildford, Surrey, England.

Threading dials are not required for threading but for those pitches where they do work they may be helpful. The Grizzly lathe I bought new had no option for a thread dial so I made one. Later I adapted a dial from a similar lathe. I've used it about 10% of the time as I've grown accustomed to leaving the half-nuts engaged and reversing the carriage to the beginning of the cut. When I made one I researched the subject at this forum and also at practical machinist and found excellent examples that can easily be reproduced.

There is a thread here that is a good introduction to thread dials, what they can do, and how they work or don't. Pete What dp said is correct about not needing one if you do not dis-engage the nut during threading. Pulling the tool bit out and reversing the lathe is really good practice for a beginner. It is especially important for odd threads or metric for example on many lathes.

Drummond 4

You didn't mention if you had a quick change gear box (QC) or loose change gears? Since your feed screw is 8 threads per inch, any multiple of that does not require you to need a thread dial. For example, if your gears give a 3 to 1 reduction (total), That times 8 equals a 24 thread pitch regardless of engagement. So the easy threads you can do are 8,16,24,32,40,48 Everything else requires a dial or using dp's method hope this helps Congratulations on having a fun machine Rich. Thanks dp & rich. So much to learn. Just picked this thing up a week ago after a month of run around from the seller.

I've only used a lathe a few times to make bosses so just simple drilling and then chucking up a tap in the tail stock and letting it slide on the bed for tapping so im very very green and hope to pick up some very much need knowledge from all the members here. I've just completed a full clean up,lube,paint job and am very proud to own.

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Wasn't used in the past 18 years as the owner passed away. I only payed $275 and has some tooling but am missing some too i think,dog plate etc but gonna go back and look around to see if i can locate. I'd like to post pics but don't have clearance from the mods yet. Maybe it won't be too long????

No quick change but i do have a stack of change gears leeding to more questions. I think normal would be 13 but i have way more then that pete.

As mentioned, if you keep the half nuts engaged and run the lathe in reverse to return to your starting point, you can get by without a threading dial. Or, if the tpi is a multiple of the leadscrew pitch (proably 8 tpi, thus 8, 16, 24, 32, 40 are not a problem, you can freely disengage and re-engage the halfnuts as you wish. When I first got my lathe I got by for a few years without a threading dial. Except for threading up to a shoulder, when one typically wants to disengage the half nuts to keep from crashing the toolbit, it's not a big deal. I eventually got a threading dial, and it's more convenient and a bit faster. I think there have been articles in Home Shop Machininst about making your own, or try www.plazamachinery.com. Look at the picture in this thread: If you look on the right hand side of the carriage you'll see a post sticking out just above the lead screw.

That's where the threading dial attaches. The post is held into the carriage with a set screw; the thread dial slides on the post and is held with another set screw. I couldn't see in your picture if yours has the hole and set screw or not.

If you need a better picture, let me know. Edit - Look at the FIRST picture. I forgot that Doozer had added some pictures later. Look at the picture in this thread: If you look on the right hand side of the carriage you'll see a post sticking out just above the lead screw. That's where the threading dial attaches. The post is held into the carriage with a set screw; the thread dial slides on the post and is held with another set screw.

I couldn't see in your picture if yours has the hole and set screw or not. If you need a better picture, let me know.

Edit - Look at the FIRST picture. I forgot that Doozer had added some pictures later. Nope no shaft or hole for mounting.

It can't be too hard for me to buy the repop one on ebay and mark out the 2 holes to mount. Seems pretty simple or am i missing something?

One is a plain hole for the shaft coming out of the dial and another hole on the front threaded for a set screw. As long as the mesh is correct on the lead screw correct??????? This is NOT a normal 9' workshop south bend.

It is a wide bed 9' series S or T. With some minor tweaks, this lathe became the Heavy 10 in 1939. The original thread dial is identical to the one on the heavy 10, and mounts using a single bolt and a small dowel pin to limit rotation, not a smooth stud with set screw like the 9' workshop uses. Give the serial number off the right end of the bed, upper side, between the front ways, and we can date it more accurately.

Allan you must be confused by the pic browne92 posted. Thats not mine. This is mine as i've posted on welding web forum.http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?438381-lathe-idenification.